Topic: Photo case studies
July 22, 2019 / By Dollee Question:
Check it out :)
yea i guess i'll start using the histogram, im actually on youtube learning, thanks!
Carnation | 6 days ago
Well, here are my thoughts. You need to study up on exposure. Many of these photos just look way too bad for such a fine camera. I see you are using Manual mode, but I also see you are using various metering functions, some photos are spot metered, some are center weighted, some are matrix. I tend to notice that your photos that tend to bad underexposure were done with spot metering.
Keep in mind, I know lots of people on here blab on about "oh you have to be in full manual" with your DSLR to get the best out of it. I do not totally agree with that. If you are in manual and still basing all your settings on the in camera meter, then that is little better than being in full Auto. The in camera meter is a reflective meter, and it WILL give inaccurate readings depending on the tonal value of the scene. ANY camera will do this, not just yours. If you use the spot meter, this can become a very big problem. In camera meters try to bring all things down or up to 18% middle grey, and you have to know how to use exposure compensation to offset that depending on if the subject you are metering is lighter or darker than middle grey. You cannot just put in numbers based on what the in camera meter tells you and it be correct. Ways around this are to use an external ambient light meter, or to use the in camera meter and take your reading from a grey card in the scene. In your case, until you have a full understanding of how to use exposure compensation, I suggest you use the camera in the MATRIX metering mode.
Google the Ansel Adams Zone System to get an understanding of how exposure relates to middle grey.
Also, using Aperture Priority is no crime. It is how many pros use their cameras and by doing that you can easily use the + and - exposure compensation adjustment to dial in the perfect exposure.
I also have to wonder, did you never check your histogram during your shooting? It would have indicated these exposure issues. I don't go along with looking at and staring at the monitor after every shot, but a check at the beginning of the shoot will tell you if you are in the ballpark.
Some of these shots can be "saved" very easily IF you shot in the RAW mode. A little boost in the exposure value and midtone levels will do wonders for them. You did shoot in RAW didn't you?
One last thing. Your lens is a long way from doing justice to that body. The 28 - 135 is a low end consumer lens that is not much better than a kit lens on a Rebel. You need some quality lenses on that camera. You do not necessarily have to have the hyper expensive L lenses, but there are large aperture prime lenses in the Canon line up that would make a world of difference in your photos. An ideal lens collection would be:
the 28 1.8
the 50 1.4
the 85 1.8
the 135 2.0L (yes, this is an L lens, but is a stunning portrait lens, though on the 5D, the 85 1.8 is also a great portrait lens)
(I also use a 5D MkII)
Many of them are quite underexposed...something I would not expect from someone using a professional level camera like the 5D mkII on manual mode. I'd recommend that you learn how to use the built in histogram to avoid this in the future.
huh! u use a 5D Mark II .. I think a p&s could have done a better job....
3 on a scale of 10 ...
I think you have talent in Photography. You just need a little more practice and maybe take some courses in Photography, but other than that, their beautiful pictures! Keep up the good work!